Archive for February, 2009

Rock Flour = Turquoise Rivers

26/02/2009
Wilken River, Makarora BC, NZ

Wilken River, Makarora BC, NZ

Kerin Folks Flat on the Wilkin River is about an hour into an eight-hour trek to the Top Forks Hut area.  I’ll include more images of that area soon, but felt I had to post this image ASAP. “Rock flour” colours the water the brilliant turquoise blue that is visible in this image. Rock flour is a result of the glacier a few miles upriver, dragging and grinding rocks and stones between the bottom of the glacier and the ground. The curious color of the fine powder that comes out of the glacier’s terminus is the subject of many a tourist’s query. So I’ve been told, rock flour is simply mud that hasn’t been exposed to the air.  Once exposed, after a number of years, it turns brown.  In any event it sure makes for good images.  This is probably one of my favorite, even after being a professional photographer for a number of years.

 Top Forks is a remote part of Aspiring National Park, right in the center of the park, accessible from the Makarora West village area.  The highlight of the Top Forks valley is  Mt. Castor and Mt. Pollux from which hanging glaciers drop house-sized ice blocks throughout the day and night, making a roaring sound heard from the hut.

Inspirational People

26/02/2009
Karan Puri & Shawn Lee, Adventurers from Singapore

Karan Puri & Shaun Lee, Adventurers from Singapore

Karan Puri, 18 of Katong Province and Shaun Lee, 19 of Bedok province, Singapore, are not only really nice guys, they’re also inspiring. I’ve run into them here at the the Wanaka Hostel. Right now there  currently out biking around town somewhere. I found their motivation to travel New Zealand so inspiring I thought I’d share it with you.  I interviewed them last night over a beer, out here on the porch from where I write this piece.

Both Karan and Shawn have just finished high school and have about three months off, before they report for the mandatory 2-year military stint that all young men are required to do in Singapore.  When Karan first walked into the hostel I noticed he had a sense of inquiry and interest, not to mention compassion and friendliness. Later, upon meeting Shawn it I got the same sense of adventure and excitement.  They are now on day 6 of their adventure. So here’s some insight as to what brought them to Wanaka, New Zealand.

MSI: So what motivated you two to come to New Zealand?
Karan: To do something before the military. This is the first time on vacation without my parents, and I had been here in Wanaka when I was a child. Something about the place stuck with me. So I wanted to come back.
You see, one never really gets a break to travel if you’ve been brought up in Singapore. (more…)

Power of Place: Utah’s Canyonlands

24/02/2009
Looking W on Island in the Sky, Utah

Looking W on Island in the Sky, Utah

Although I was graduated from the University of Utah, and spent as much time in Utah, as in any other state, I had never been to CanyonlandsNational Park. I recently had the opportunity to kill some time while in Salt Lake waiting for a car repair, and decided to spend a few days and nights in the desert near Moab. My first stop was the Island in Sky. I spent a day exploring the plateau, taking pics, and scrambling among the sandstone outcrops. I miss the Utah desert, although New Zealand is hard to beat.

Navajo Sandstone: Canyonlands, Utah

Navajo Sandstone: Canyonlands, Utah

As an aside, I was driving here in New Zealand from Christchurch to Wanaka, and passed through canyon that reminds me of American Fork Canyon in Utah.  Anyway, after a couple of days on the Island, I did some work in Moab on MSI’s portable office, (the laptop) then moved on to the Needles area in the southern portion of the park. Here one can day hike or spend the night in the backcountry, and even drive around the park, although the latter is not high on my list. Along those lines, read Edward Abbey’s The Monkeywrench Gang, or Desert Solitaire on brilliant views about America’s relationship to wilderness. Oddly, I’m not sure his books have made it here downunder. I’ll keep you posted. 

Island in the Sky, Image:Steve Mulligan/USPS

Island in the Sky, Image:Steve Mulligan/USPS

The Utah desert has a power all its own. So, if you’ve not been I suggest you get there before you die. Put it on your bucket list. For more information on the MSI’s Utah Solo and Wilderness programs, please contact us. The US Park Service has some great resources for Canyonlands

Global Climate Change

23/02/2009
Glacier Calving, NZ

Glacier Calving, NZ

Largest iceberg ‘calved’ in 25 years from Tasman Glacier Terminal Face, Mt. Cook, New Zealand
A three meter tidal wave surging down Aoraki Mount Cook’s Terminal Lake was the first indicator of the largest single iceberg in 25 years calving directly from the Tasman Glacier terminal face yesterday (10 February). The giant slab of ice or ‘calf’, estimated to be 250m long by 250m wide by 80m high, plunged into the Terminal Lake in the early afternoon, the most significant single calving in the lake’s 25-year existence.  A second iceberg about quarter of the size calved from the face shortly afterwards.

Glacier Explorers Operations Manager Bede Ward, whose company takes visitors on boat trips to view the Tasman Glacier face from the water, said the calving happened between trips but made quite a splash.

Terminal face calving

Terminal face calving

Last week passengers onboard Glacier Explorers boat trips witnessed the calving of “The Bomb”, an eight meter wide and 30 meter chunk of turquoise ice.“We thought that took the cake but this new iceberg, is absolutely massive. It supersedes the last significant one named “Sir Edmund Hillary” which calved on January 11, 2008, the same day Sir Edmund Hillary passed away. “We’re getting more and more icebergs now so we’re naming them in order to track and communicate changes and locations.  “Since the Terminal Lake began forming in 1973, the Tasman Glacier’s retreat has noticeably quickened because the lake is expanding all the time and is causing a more rapid melt of the terminal face. I think we may be looking at major calving from the terminal face as an annual event now.”

Mountain People Who Inspire

12/02/2009
Becky's 86th Birthday

Becky's 86th Birthday

I just received an email from my good friend Paul Myhre in Leavenworth, Washington.  Goodie, I get to write about two mountain people who inspire. Paul, the soft spoken man of the mountains with a sharp wit and humble attitude is the quintessential mountain man. He worked as a climbing ranger for Mt. Rainer and is still fit as a fiddle at the ripe old age of  (Edited).  Paul is an inspiration, and he proves to still be so by sending me this email of climbing legend Fred Becky who just celebrated his 86th Birthday.  For those that don’t know about Fred, he’s probably put up more first ascents than anyone. Climb any classic mid-range crag in the US and chances are you’ll run across his name.  My favorite, at least for scenery is the Becky Route on Liberty Bell in the North Cascades.   The reason there are so many people at Becky’s birthday party is he seems to be a nice guy.

Far Right, 1st Row

Becky in Red, Paul: Far Right, 1st Row

I met him through Paul when I lived in Leavenworth. We all had a beer at the brewery. (I do miss Leavenworth at times)(But I’m not complaining about New Zealand at present).  The thing about mountain people like Paul and Fred is they are still out there doing it. Well, I’m not sure how much Fred is climbing, but I can bet he’s outside and in the mountains in some way. Last I heard he had his little black book out in Alaska somewhere with some young whippersnappers and was at the base camp enjoying being on the glacier. My generation may be the last child in the woods, but these guys get me going. No computers, or rarely, for them.  Ok, Paul did send me this email, but last I heard from Paul he was still doing Outer Space the Wall in Icicle Creek. The photos of Fred Becky’s birthday give me hope, lot’s of it! I’m going to pull myself away from this machine and head to Kerin Forks and Gillespie Pass tomorrow. Goodie, and I’m only fifty!

Chimu Inka U.S. Tour a Success

11/02/2009
Chimu Inka in Bristol, NH Fall'08

Chimu Inka in Bristol, NH Fall'08

The Andean Folklore music band from Cusco Peru, Chimu Inka, headed by Guillermo Seminario and joined by Wachi Taype and Mario Montalvo visited the USA in September and October of 2008. Their tour was a success beyond measure. They touched our New England communities with their grace, professionalism, humor and warmth. 
The group’s schedule was packed from beginning to end, and venues were calling asking for them to play at the last moment. Unfortunately we were only limited by the number of days in a week, and our energy.  MSI Director Randy Richards  hosted the trio at his home in Sunapee, and although they based out of Sunapee, aside from the engagements there, they didn’t spend a lot of time in town. 

Chimu Inka in Bennington, VT Fall'08

Chimu Inka in Bennington, VT Fall'08

The group covered Bennington and Montpelier Vermont to Gorham NH and Sturbridge Mass. They played universities, schools, coffeehouses and even one bar.  According to Director Randy Richards, it was “mission acccomplished” at the end of the tour. “We definitely connected people to each other through this music exchange, and to themselves through the power of the music and the performances,” said Richards.
For more information on their tour in 2010, their hosting MSI participants in Peru July 2010, see their webpage at www.mtnspirit.orgor their blog at www.chimuinka.wordpress.com

Guillermo and Chimu Inka Host MSI Group: July 12th’09

11/02/2009
Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

MSI is excited to be working further with Guillermo Seminario and Chimu Inka this summer. For anyone interested in joining us, a small group, (limited to 6-7) will be going to Cusco, Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca with Guillermo and Chimu Inka as our hosts.   MSI has been running programs to Peru since 1998, (R Richards had been mountain guiding before that in Peru), and we are excited to be working with who we consider our dear family members Guillermo, Wachi and and Mario.  

Amantani Island, Summit View

Amantani Island, Summit View

We will visit with locals, do a small service project, stay in the Sacred Valley, venture to Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca. There will be a base for a few days in Ollantaytambo where we will head to Willoc to study weaving in action. This area is known for it’s traditional weaves with mainly vegetable dyes.  Of course, Guillermo and his band members will provide a strong musical influence, not only by performing, but sharing with us their history and love of traditional Andean folklore music.

There is still space available, airline prices are at an all time low to Lima and Cusco, so we hope you’ll consider joining us. For more information see MSI’s website at www.mtnspirit.org or contact Randy Richards at 603-763-2668 or by email at randy@mtnspirit.org .

The Kindness of Strangers

11/02/2009
Stacked stones, Fantail Falls, NZ

Stacked stones, Fantail Falls, NZ

Fantail Falls is at the trailhead for Mt. Brewster at the Haast Pass road on New Zealand’s South Island.  Taking off from the parking lot, the trail has a short bypass to the falls.  After a few days at the Mt. Brewster area, I decided to drop my pack off at the car, and come back to the falls.  Not only was I treated to the falls on the far side of the river, but also to the piles of rocks left by strangers. I doubt one person or family did them all.  Whoever stacked these rocks spaced them peacefully and artfully in front of the falls. The next  rain will most likely send them toppling when the river rises.  In searching on the internet for a particular name of stacked rocks done in a meditative aire, I stumbled across an interesting article on the subject.
Update: Since I wrote this piece, I’ve driven to the south island’s west coast and back,  and noticed these stone piles at a few inspirational locations, the beaches on the Tasman Sea, and inland, near Mt. Cook.

Got a Baby? Doesn’t stop this family

11/02/2009
Family heading back from Aspiring Hut

Family heading back from Aspiring Hut

Recently, during a New Zealand national holiday, the Aspiring Hut saw a full house last Saturday night.  There were climbers, trekkers, and people of all ages. Some were making the Aspiring Hut their destination, others were headed further for Cascade Saddle, French Ridge or Mt. Aspiring’s summit.
One family was the most unique there that night. A  young couple was there with there 11 month old baby. I was amazed to see the baby stroller in the hut. It seemed so out of place. Upon quering the couple, they said they had been ill advised about the stoller, and shouldn’t have brought it.  (There is a good portion of the trail where it can be used however, not enough to warrant carrying it as much as they did).

The hike to Aspiring Hut, NZ

The hike to Aspiring Hut, NZ

Congratulations to these two for coming into the mountains with their new baby. They, and others here in New Zealand, show us that the backcountry is a place for the young and the young at heart. The next day, an elderly hiking group from Dunedin, numbering 40 or more, with an average age of 60, hiked to the hut for the day. Well done.

Mt. Brewster, New Zealand

11/02/2009
Returning from snow school, Mt. Brewster, NZ

Returning from snow school, Mt. Brewster, NZ

Some friends and I had a  great time in the Mt.  Brewster area last week. We did the two hour plus verticle hike to the hut from the valley floor, which got us there in the afternoon.  As Aspiring Guides Director Martin Hawes writes in their blog, “The track to Brewster Hut wastes no time in saying which way you are going: you leave the car, cross the river and then its straight uphill. At 2575 metres, Mt  Brewster is over 2 000 metre above the road and fortunately there is no valley slog to start. There is an honesty to this track. It takes you directly where  you want to go – upwards, and no messing about.”

Lisbeth & Amanda headed for Brewster Hut

Lisbeth & Amanda headed for Brewster Hut

Amanda is the roving hut ranger for DOC, and her roster took her there to collect hut fees, do maintenance and be a presence at the hut.  When we had a bit of free time, she and mutual friend Lizbeth Asserhoj from Denmark, did some basic snow school/ice axe lessons for the afternoon. The following day we worked our way over to Mt. Brewster glacier. But because of poor visiablity rain and slippery glacier polished rock we didn’t make it on the glacier. Even though we were well equipped for glacier travel, we decided to turn back for the hut. Some glaciologist who had earlier in the day been deposited by helicopter also decided to head for the hut. We later caught up with them at the hut, where they described their studies the effects of climate change on the Mt. Brewster Glacier. 

Sunset from Brewster Hut

Sunset from Brewster Hut

We based ourselves at the new hut, recently put there by the Department of Conservation in 2007. It replaces a four bunk hut that had been there for years. Even though we didn’t have time to get near the mountain itself, we enjoyed our time doing some ridge walks, snow school and getting towards the base of the mountain.  Next time we’re up there we’ll poke around a bit more, time permitting.